Seattle
When to Go

Seattle's reputation for rain is somewhat undeserved - catching just 38in (97cm) per year, Seattle's rainfall ranks well behind many Midwestern and Eastern cities' totals. When it comes to damp and chilly, though, not many places in the US can touch Seattle.

Averaging only 55 days of sunshine a year, you can pretty well expect to see some form of fog, mist or cloud while you're there. This pervasive grayness tends to make the city's otherwise moderate temperatures - winter highs top out around 50°F (10°C), summer highs float between 75 and 85°F (25 to 30°C) - seem downright frosty. The majority of rain falls between November and April. Snow is unusual, though when it comes, it comes down heavy. Summer is the choicest time for a visit, when marine clouds in the morning tend to burn off completely by afternoon. Spring and fall attempt to confuse residents with alternating rain and sun throughout the day.

Events

Seattle's first big ethnic festival is Chinese New Year, held in the International District, usually in January. Pioneer Square embraces its somewhat rowdy reputation on Mardi Gras (usually in late February), adding in that special Seattle touch via the annual competitive Spam-Carving Contest. Seattle's main lesbian and gay pride event is the Freedom Day Celebration, which is usually held the last Sunday in June. The Northwest Folklife Festival takes over Seattle Center during Memorial Day weekend, the last weekend in May, when 5000 performers and artists present the music, dance, craft and food of over 100 countries.

Seattle has two spectacular summer festivals that more than any other events bring the city to life. The first, Seafair, is an extravagant three-week celebration in July and early August featuring hydroplane races on Lake Washington, a torchlight parade downtown, an airshow, lots of music, a carnival and the arrival of the naval fleet. Bumbershoot, held at Seattle Center over Labor Day weekend (in early September), features an arts & crafts street fair, fine arts exhibitions and an amazing assortment of theatrical and musical events. As autumn rolls around and thoughts turn to earthier matters, the Western Washington Fair presents a bewildering array of livestock and agricultural displays, another carnival and live entertainment. It's held in Puyallup, south of Seattle, in mid-September.

Seattle Attractions
Pike Place Market

For a hungry traveler on a budget, Seattle has no greater attraction than the Pike Place Market. Nearly a century old, Pike Place is one of Seattle's most popular landmarks, as famous for the theatrics of its boisterous vendors as it is for its vastly appealing edibles. Its most popular buildings are the Main and North arcades, with their artfully arranged banks of produce, and fresh fish, crabs and mollusks piled high on ice. The best bet for enjoying the market is to go on an uncrowded weekday morning. Wander slowly, sample frequently and remember to keep your eyes peeled for flying fish: the fishmongers hurtle huge salmon between their stalls at breakneck speeds!

Over half of the market's open-air stalls are now devoted to locally made arts & crafts, and its labyrinthine lower levels are filled with pocket-sized shops of all descriptions, from Indian spice stalls to magicians' supply shops. The streets surrounding Pike Place Market continue the maze of shops, with ethnic food stalls, plant shops, galleries and gift boutiques. Pike Place Market is in the northwest corner of downtown, near the waterfront.

Seattle Center

The 1962 World's Fair, also known as the 'Century 21 Exposition', brought in nearly 10 million visitors from around the world for a glimpse of Tomorrow, Seattle-style. What remains of the futuristic enclave of exhibition halls, arenas and public spaces is today called the Seattle Center. Don't be surprised if it generates more nostalgia for The Jetsons than thoughts of the future.

No other icon epitomizes Seattle as well as the Space Needle, a 600ft (180m) rocket-styled observation station and restaurant. After the 43-second zip up its elevators to the top, the brave of stomach are treated to breathtaking 360° views. A 1.5 mile (2.5km) experiment in mass transit, the Monorail is another signature piece of the 1962 fair. Today, it provides fun and frequent transport between downtown and Seattle Center, covering the distance in only two minutes.

The Flag Pavilion & Plaza and the International Fountain (with jets of water that pulse to the beat of music) point to the cosmopolitan sympathies of the fair. The Seattle Opera House (home of the opera, symphony and ballet), the Pacific Science Center, two sports arenas, a children's museum and the Fun Forest Amusement Park are other remnants of the fair. Seattle Center is less than a mile northwest of downtown Seattle.

The U District

The University of Washington campus sits at the edge of a busy commercial area known as the U District. The main streets here - University Way, commonly called 'the Ave,' and NE 45th St - are chock-a-block with cheap restaurants and cafes, arthouse cinemas and student-filled bars. It's less a throwback to the 1960s as it was in days past, but the bustle is no less satisfying.

'U Dub,' as most people refer to the university, is a lively place that's definitely worth touring - especially in spring, when pink and orange flowered azaleas paint the campus in brilliant hues. Burke Museum keeps a good collection of dinosaur skeletons, but its real treasures are its Indian artifacts, especially the collection of cedar canoes and totem poles. The school's fine-art showspace, Henry Art Gallery, mounts some of Seattle's most intelligent 20th century art exhibits.

Just south of the Lake Washington ship canal, university-run Washington Park Arboretum features 5500 different plant species within 200 acres (80ha) of mature forest and gardens. At the southern edge of the arboretum is the Japanese Garden, a collection of koi pools, waterfalls and manicured plantings. Bird watching is popular at the northern end of the arboretum, as are canoeing, fishing and swimming.

The U District is 3 miles (5km) northeast of downtown and accessible by bus.

Capitol Hill

Inlaid brass dance steps along Broadway propel you into a rumba or a tango (actually, it's public art), but you'll never see a local learning the steps. And that's about as aesthetic as the streets get. Unlike other parts of the city, it's the throngs of people and not the buildings that really set Capitol Hill apart from other neighborhoods. Long a counterculture oasis, there are probably more nose rings on Capitol Hill than anywhere else in the Northwest. Also the principal gay and lesbian neighborhood in Seattle, the area exudes an unmatched creative vitality.

Broadway - dotted with atmospheric eateries and drinkeries - is the neighborhood's main strip. With its multitudes of sweets shops and cafes, it's also a fine place to develop sugar and caffeine habits. For some divine accompaniment with your indulgence, sit close to St Marks Cathedral, where a chorus performs Gregorian chants on Sunday nights. South of Broadway is the hip Pike/Pine Corridor, a nightlife hotspot of all-night coffeehouses, live-music clubs and rowdy, smoke-filled bars. If you're looking for late night action, this is one of Seattle's most lively scenes. Capitol Hill is a mile (2km) northeast of downtown and connected to the city center by bus.

Queen Anne

Rising above Seattle Center is Queen Anne - a neighborhood of majestic red-brick houses and apartment buildings, sweeping lawns manicured to perfection and gorgeous views of the city and bay. Queen Anne is not nearly as established as other neighborhoods, but it does have cafes, trendy music clubs and some old-time Seattle entertainment. The main reason to visit is to check out the view. The observatory deck at 3rd Ave and Highland Drive is the best spot for it, especially at night or sunset. Queen Anne is just over a mile (2km) northwest of downtown and has frequent bus connections to the city center.

Seattle Washington
Off the Beaten Track

Snoqualmie Falls

An hour's drive into the mountains east of Seattle is the Salish Lodge and Spa at Snoqualmie Falls. This beautiful resort lodge, perched atop 268ft (82m) Snoqualmie Falls, was the locale for many of the scenes from the TV series Twin Peaks. The drive into the Cascades, views of the waterfall and short hikes in the area, followed by lunch at the lodge (jokes about cherry pie and a cup of joe are mandatory) make for a nice day away.

Four ski areas - Alpental, Snoqualmie Summit, Ski Acres and Hyak - are another prime draw. The falls and resort are 4 miles (6km) northwest of the town of Snoqualmie on Hwy 202.

Woodinville

The suburban community of Woodinville, 20 miles (32km) northeast of Seattle off I-405, is home to two popular wineries and a brewpub. Chateau Ste Michelle was one of Washington's first wineries, and its historic estate lends itself easily to summertime picnics and concerts. Next door is the Columbia Winery, offering still more tippling and touring. Redhook Ale Brewery, one of Washington's first microbreweries, has opened a new Woodinville brewery and pub, the Forecasters Public House. Tours are offered daily here as well.

Puget Sound

Island-strewn, misty and mysterious, Puget Sound is a great area to explore via ferry. The most popular ferry trip for visitors is the link between Seattle and Winslow, Bainbridge Island's primary town. Winslow has an array of shops and restaurants within an easy walk of the dock, but most people take the ferry simply for the ride and the great views of Seattle. The Bainbridge Island Winery in Winslow is a good destination both for cyclists and wine buffs. The island is 6 miles (10km) west of Seattle. Ferries board around the clock at Pier 52 on the Alaskan Way waterfront; the trip takes 35 minutes each way.

Bremerton is the largest town on Kitsap Peninsula and the Puget Sound's principal naval base. The main attraction here is the Naval Museum and USS Turner Joy, a US Naval destroyer at the waterfront park by the ferry terminal. Bremerton is 15 miles (24km) west of Seattle. The ferry makes 13 trips daily from Seattle's Pier 52.

Blake Island is a state park whose only approach is by boat, which made it a safe place to host the 1993 APEC conference, where President Clinton met with 14 Asian leaders. The most popular facility on the island is Tillicum Village and its Northwest Coast Indian Cultural Center & Restaurant. Blake Island is 12 miles (20km) southwest of Seattle. Boats depart Piers 55 and 56 for a tour of the waterfront and the crossing to the island. Once there, the package includes a traditional Indian salmon bake, traditional dancing and a film about Northwest Native Americans.

Vancouver

Just across the Canadian border, Vancouver is to British Columbia what Seattle is to Washington: the locus of the region's culture and vitality. Consistently rated among the world's most beautiful cities, a large part of Vancouver's appeal lies in its location. The city sits on a thumb-shaped strip of land almost entirely surrounded by water: Burrard Inlet lies to the north, Fraser River to the south, and English Bay and the Strait of Georgia to the west. North of Burrard Inlet, the massive flanks of the Coast Mountains rise in an unbroken chain all the way to Alaska.

Vancouver is larger and more cosmopolitan than Victoria, BC's capital across the Strait of Georgia. The downtown area sits on the peninsula separating the Burrard Inlet and English Bay. In Gastown, downtown's trendiest morsel, buskers jam beneath the glow of antique lampposts. Just east of downtown, Chinatown packs more people of Chinese descent into its few crowded blocks than most Canadian towns have residents. Among the attractions are the Dr Sun Yat-Sen Classical Chinese Garden and Sam Kee, the World's Thinnest Office Building. Immediately north of downtown, 1000 acre (400ha) Stanley Park fills in the rest of the peninsula. The park is home to an old-growth forest, the Vancouver Aquarium, a 6 mile (10km) seawall promenade and scores of trails and beaches.

A two-hour drive north of Seattle via I-5, Vancouver lies in the extreme southwestern corner of British Columbia. Buses and hourly flights connect the two cities.

Seattle
Activities

As hometown to the giant outfitting companies Eddie Bauer and REI, it should come as no surprise that Seattle folk love their great outdoors. It's even possible to hike wilderness trails without ever leaving the city. Seward Park, which juts into Lake Washington 6 miles (10km) southeast of downtown, offers several miles of trails in a remnant of the area's old growth forest. Even longer trails are available in the 543 acre (220 hectare) Discovery Park, 5 miles (8km) northwest of downtown.

Another long-distance path that is welcoming to both hikers and bikers is the Burke-Gilman Trail, a 16.5-mile (26.5km) paved path that winds from Ballard to Log Boom Park on Seattle's Eastside. The trail follows an old rail line along the shores of Lake Union and Lake Washington, and the views are great. Nearby Green Lake Park is a favorite with swimmers and windsurfers in summer, and the paths that line Green Lake are often alive with joggers.

In good weather, the surface of Lake Union offers fine sailing, as well as sea and white-water kayaking. The Waterfront Activities Center on the University of Washington campus rents canoes and rowboats.

Seattle is fortunate to have several ski areas within easy drive of the city. Closest are the ski slopes at Snoqualmie Pass and Stevens Pass, 80 miles (125km) east of Seattle, and Crystal Mountain, 75 miles (121km) southeast of town near Mt Rainier. If you don't have a vehicle or don't want to face the drive, ski buses leave from several locations in the Seattle area.

Seattle
History

Before the arrival of Europeans, the Seattle area was home to the Duwamish, a generally peaceable tribe that fished the bays and rivers of the Puget Sound and befriended early white settlers. In 1851, a native New Yorker named David Denny led the first group of settlers across the Oregon Trail with the intention of settling along the Puget Sound. Recognizing the area's seaport possibilities, Denny's band staked a claim on Alki Point in present-day West Seattle. After a winter of wind and rain, the group moved the settlement to Elliott Bay, renaming it Seattle for the Duwamish chief Sealth, a friend of an early merchant.

Hardly a boomtown, early Seattle was peopled mainly by bachelors until one of the founding fathers went back east on a mission to induce young unmarried women to come to Seattle. On two different trips, a total of 57 women made the journey and married into the frontier stock, in the process setting a more civilized tone for the city (and inspiring the especially bad 1960s TV show Here Come the Brides). A spur from the Northern Pacific Railroad's terminus in Portland reached Seattle in 1893, linking the town by rail with the rest of the country. The lumber, shipping and general commerce derived from immigration soon swelled the town's ranks so much that even the Great Fire of 1889 barely slowed the advance. After 50 blocks of the old wooden downtown burned in a single day, the city was reborn in brick and iron, centered on today's Pioneer Square.

Seattle's first boom came when the ship Portland docked in 1897 with its now-famous cargo: two tons of Yukon gold. Within weeks, thousands of fortune hunters from across the country passed through on their way to the northern gold fields. Local business blossomed as Seattle became the banking center for the nouveau riche, and the bars, brothels and honky-tonks of Pioneer Square overflowed with pleasure-starved miners.

The boom continued through WWI, when Northwest lumber was greatly in demand and shipyards along the Puget Sound 'harvested' the surrounding forests. WWII furthered the shipbuilding boom, and aircraft and atomic energy industries added to the region's pattern of profit. Today, international trade and tech firms (such as Microsoft and Amazon) make up the backbone of Seattle's booming economy. And although Boeing, for decades as synonymous with Seattle as rain, announced in 2001 that it was up and leaving for windier pastures in Chicago, the city's progressive politics, inventive culture and ready access to outdoor recreation continue to lure restless people like no place else on the West Coast.

Seattle
Getting There & Away

Seattle's airport, known as Sea-Tac, is the largest in the Pacific Northwest, offering daily service to Europe, Asia and points throughout North America. Seattle is also a major hub for local commuter airlines and has frequent flights to Portland and Vancouver.

Greyhound buses link Seattle to Portland, Eugene and points in California along I-5 south, as well as to Bellingham and Vancouver on I-5 north. Buses also serve the I-90 corridor from Seattle to Spokane and on through northern Idaho and Montana to Chicago. If you're heading to British Columbia, Quick Shuttle makes daily express runs between Seattle and Vancouver. Pickup is either at the airport or the downtown Travelodge.

Seattle's King St Station is the terminus of two Amtrak train lines. The Empire Builder heads east through Spokane, eventually reaching Chicago, while the Coast Starlight runs between Seattle and Los Angeles, with stops in Tacoma, Olympia, Portland, San Francisco and points south.

Ferries to Washington destinations (Bremerton and Bainbridge Island) are state operated, with reservations taken for vehicles only. Reservations for ferries that pass through Canadian waters are also recommended and can be made by calling individual operators. The passenger-only Victoria Clipper departs from Pier 69 in Seattle for Victoria, British Columbia, mornings daily (2.5 hours). The slower but cheaper Victoria Line plies the same route in the afternoon (4.5 hours). Travelers should be prepared to go through Canadian customs upon arrival.

Most national car rental firms have facilities at the airport. There are also a handful of companies that rent motorhomes (RVs), campers and motorcycles. As everywhere else in the USA and Canada, driving is on the right.

Getting Around

Seattle's Sea-Tac Airport is 13 miles (21km) south of the city via I-5. Gray Line's Airport Express and Shuttle Express both offer inexpensive rides to and from Seattle's major downtown hotels. Taxis are another option, though they're not for the budget-conscious. There are plenty of car rental agencies at the airport if you want to chauffeur yourself.

Metro Transit buses blanket the metropolitan area, with most buses running through downtown on 4th Ave or in the Bus Tunnel, which has five downtown entrances. In the immediate downtown area, all bus rides are free from 6am to 7pm in the area between 6th Ave and the Waterfront, and between Jackson St in Pioneer Square and Battery St. Note that Seattle Center is outside of the Ride Free Area.

Seattle Trolley Tours make for great downtown transport. Visitors are encouraged to get off and on at leisure, and tickets are good for the full day of operation. Stops, indicated by bright yellow sandwich boards, include the Space Needle, Pike Place, Waterfront, Pioneer Square, International District, Kingdome and Seattle Art Museum. The trolley runs every 30 minutes.

If you're driving to Seattle, you'll probably arrive via I-5 or I-90. It's usually wise to check traffic conditions before you hit the freeways, as Seattle's traffic is second only to that of Los Angeles in sheer hellishness. Downtown Seattle also has miles of one-way streets, and parking can be a nightmare (as well as expensive).

For trips outside the city limits, the Washington State Ferry system is a wonderfully scenic way to get around. The views of the city from out on the Sound are tops, making a ride on a sunny summer day worth taking whether you need to get anywhere or not. Ferries leave from the piers along the Alaskan Way waterfront.